16/20
Italian
Hidden beneath Mildura's landmark late-1800s hotel, in the sprawling former cellar, the city's most celebrated restaurant is devoid of anything to distract from its main game – delivering a parade of unpretentious Italian dishes that are produce-focused and always exceptional. This dimly lit, magical restaurant is a lot of fun, too, as the entire night unfolds into one long, leisurely meal, so don't be in any hurry to leave. Assured service means the only surprise is in the daily changing five-course set menu: you discover what each dish is only when it arrives. Dinner could start with ocean trout cooked whole in a salt-crust, and served theatrically at the table. It may be followed by the famed, now farmed, Murray cod, sitting in an intensely flavoured chicken broth and paired with asparagus spears. There's likely to be home-made pasta – maybe spaghettini – with chunky roasted tomato pieces, basil and yabbies. A meat dish will follow: perhaps thick, pink slices of roast lamb with its rosemary-infused jus alongside baby green beans and zucchini. To finish, rich, dark espresso and a petite filo-pastry tart filled with patisserie cream and fresh figs ensure a sweet conclusion to a grand evening.
Open Tues–Sat 7pm–late (open Sun public hols only)
Typical prices Set menus $95 (Mon–Fri); $99 (Sat and public hols)
Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos
Wine A 300-plus list with a strong leaning towards Italy and Australia, plus several by the glass
Owners Stefano de Pieri and Donata Carrazza
Chefs Stefano de Pieri and Peter Webley
Seats 60; private room 
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